Sunday, May 24, 2009

Blurred Vision

It's 3am. I am wide awake. I did my 2am round on the trauma ICU patients. They were all were still alive, bleeding controlled, vent numbers appropriate. Here was my chance for 2 hours of sleep, barring any unforeseen emergencies. I laid on the bare bed of the call room. No sheets. No pillows. And I stared at the ceiling. In my mind, I couldn't put down the book I had been reading, but I wasn't going to give into my inner-child's curiosity and piss away a chance for 2 hours of precious sleep to continue reading. This book is giving me some clarity into future job prospects, and now, at 3am in the ICU, I can't stop thinking about what I want to do with my life; at least my life for the next year, or maybe even two.

It's 10am. I have half a dozen eggs in one hand, and sweet chili sauce in the other. I'm sweaty and smelly. I got home from work at 9am, debated going to bed and sleeping away the morning, seeing as how I wasn't able to sleep when I had the chance during call. I had a cup of coffee before leaving work, a red-bull when getting home, and then another coffee, and still lacked the motivation/energy to go running. But the thought of going to the grocery store, buying fresh strawberries and making home-made strawberry pancakes was enough motivation to get me to take off my scrub top, change into running shorts, grab my ipod and head out the door. My legs are sore. I ran along a greenbelt that I would normally avoind in late afternoons, and at all costs in evenings, for fear of safety. But, I really enjoyed running along the greenbelt this morning. I live by the mantra that serious crime doesn't happen on Saturday and Sunday mornings. After a pathetic start, I hit my stride and settled into an enjoyable pace, lost to the beat of itunes, and lost in a kaleidoscope of thoughts. And right before I headed into the grocery store, I decided to make a brie omelet with sweet chili sauce-which is what I ordered for breakfast yesterday. I took a R100 bill note with me, and shoved the R79 into my pocket as I headed out the door and started salivating at the thought of a scrumptious omelet for breakfast. I walked past the guys selling sock, who seem to only be out selling socks on weekends. And then I passed a guy, who I guessed was blind, and an amputee sitting on a piece of cardboard, staring off into space. I didn't hesitate to reach into my pocked and fish out the spare change. He startled when I stepped on a piece of the cardboard (confirming my suspicion that he was blind), and stuck out his hand when I said, "here ya go." And I walked on. And immediately, I wondered two things. Why hadn't I just given him all of the R79? And why do I readily give handouts here in SA (and Nepal and Ethiopia), but not back in America? The reason, I've concluded-as I've been thinking about this for a while now, is that here, as in Nepal, Ethiopia, etc there is no real provisions for the destitute. No real welfare-to speak of...

It's 1pm. I'm in Maponya Mall, in the heart of Soweto. I'm fulfilling a promise, to join JC and meet his wife. When his family was here at Easter, including his father who was in town from Zimbabwe, he'd invited me over to meet his whole family, and have a braii. Painfully, I had to decline, as that was the weekend I was headed to Swaziland. And so we made plans to meet today. I'm on American time, he and his wife are on African time. We meet half an hour later. I'm blurring the accepted "doctor-patient" boundaries that North America has taught me. He already has my mobile phone number-as do a dozen or so patients, as well as my email-as do a handful of patients. But meeting outside the confines of work seems to be outside the "norm" of doctor patient relationships. I note, to myself, that I am no longer his doctor which makes it seem fine to meet him.

He arrives with his wife, their daughter is off playing with a friend, but I'm told we'll pick her up later. We walk the few short blocks to their place. It's a single bedroom. It is smaller than my bedroom here in SA. And has one bed, a fridge and a stove, and a TV. There is no running water in the room, and the toilet is outside as well. It's what I anticipated, well except that it has electricity. I immediately make myself at home, sitting on the bed and we catch up since we haven't chatted in a while. Coincidently, I'd talked to his Infectious Disease Doc a few days ago, who gave me updates on a few patients that I had been taking care of, so it's easy to shy away from asking about his meds and his CD4, viral load, and TB cultures. Instead, we quickly delve into politics. SA has elected a new president since we last spoke, and The Mugabi-Tsvangirai Coalition have pleaded Zimbabwe's case for international donations. We have lots to chat about, especially because news coverage of Zim has fallen off the radar and I've lost track of some of the current events. As we're talking, Rumi makes sandwiches for all of us. The awkwardness that I was worried about, doesn't seem to be materializing. It's as if we're friends who just haven't seen each other in a few months.

As we finished eating and as the political discussion mellows, Rumi brings our old photos. I stare at a photo of a younger man, in a graduation ceremony.
"Can you pick him out of the crowd?" she asks.
No. No I can't. None of the three of these men look like JC. Except for his distinctive smile. Which I can pick out in the photo.
"That's him."
"Can you believe it? Look at that photo. Look how different he looks today. Look how much weight he lost."
I look at JC. He's gained 10 kg (22 lbs) since I admitted him to the hospital in February. But his physical stature is completely changed from the person in the picture.
"Every day I thank god that you saved him."
I swallow, unsure how to respond. "I'm thankful he's doing so well."

We finish looking at the photos, and then we take a drive, going through neighborhoods of Soweto that I'd be uncomfortable to drive through on my own. We pick up their 5 year old daughter. I make a fuss over her new braided hair, which has happened since I last saw her, and she giggles and grabs my hand an pulls me toward the bakkie. We head back to Maponya mall, where the activities include taking an anchored hot-air balloon ride for an aerial view of Soweto. It goes 120 meters high, and you get to be up there for 15 minutes. We hop aboard, and JC points out places in the area. I'd been to Soweto last weekend to see some of the historical sights, so it's great to be getting a better overview now, with the history of Soweto fresh in my minds. We snap photos from the top, and photos of us.

After the balloon lands, we head into the mall to print pics, and then we get KFC. Friends of theirs are coming over to join for dinner, so we're getting some KFC to compliment some fish that JC is going to bake for dinner. We walk through the mall, their daughter is practically attached to me, grabbing my hand, or my shirt. In the line at KFC, their daughter is trying to teach me a few words of Shona. She doesn't understand why I don't speak any Shona, or even Zulu. JC and Rumi enjoy the show as I slaughter the pronunciations. We collect the photos out as we walk out of the mall and head back to their place.

"Have you noticed it" asks Rumi.
"What?"
"You're a celebrity today. The reaction of the people seeing a white person walking around here. Especially with T grabbing on to you."
My vision is blurred. I didn't see it. I no longer see this. Being the sole white person in the gym, or the mall no longer registers in my mind. And today, there seemed nothing unusual about going to the mall with friends and their daughter.

We get back to their place, and LJ, his pregnant wife, and their 6 year old daughter join us. We tear into the KFC as JC prepares the Tilapia for the second course. LJ went to university with JC. We're all the same age. It's small chatter for a while, talking about the balloon ride and the events of the day. I tell LJ that I want to know what JC was like in university, I want stories. I try to break the ice a bit...

"I've known this man for a long time. I could barely come to visit a few months ago..." This isn't really the ice-breaking story that I was hoping for. LJ continues and tells me how depressing it was to come to visit, watching JC getting worse and worse. LJ had lost hope, thinking JC wasn't going to make it. His eye-contact drops off as he talks, but his eyes meet mine when he thanks me for taking care of JC. Again, I swallow hoping I can keep myself composed.

The next thing I know, the Tilapia is gone. The KFC is gone. And 2 hours have passed. In that time we've discussed South African, Zimbabwean, and American politics. As well as the failing healthcare system here in South Africa, especially as it pertains to Bara, as as it pertains to a friend of LJ's who died this week. We debate affirmative action. I try to just memorize this moment. I don't want this moment to be blurry. I want to remember it in absolute clarity, for the rest of my life. Sitting here, invited into the home of a patient/friend, a friend who, up until recently was an illegal Zimbabwean immigrant, sharing dinner with his family, and his friends, on a cold Johannesburg night, has been one of the most meaningful experience of this year, if not the past many years.

LJ and JC walk me out to my car. I make plans to see JC and his family soon, and pass along my number to LJ, so that he and his wife can call me if they have any problems when she goes into labor in a few weeks time. I drive home, still listening to Mrs. Potter's Lullaby... My blurry vision seems to have cleared up.

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